ROAD TRIP - NUTRIOSO, ALPINE, HANNAGAN MEADOW

This morning we're going to take a little road trip from Greer further east to Nutrioso, Alpine, and Hannagan Meadow.  This drive has always been one of my favorites, but things have changed dramatically because of the Wallow Fire.

But, first, we'll stop for some of the best pancakes on the planet at The Rendezvous Diner.  

I asked the cook for her recipe, she said, "Buttermilk, flour, butter, baking powder."  Hmmm, I'm pretty sure she left out some crucial ingredient that makes these pancakes sing.  Possibly cake flour?  Okay, back to our road trip.

We are now heading out of Greer driving north, we'll turn right on Highway 260 towards Springerville/Eager.  Then we will turn and go south on 191. This is where the pain begins.

This has always been a favorite drive.  The kind of drive to play Bach Brandenburg Concertos and roll down the windows to smell the fresh air, feel the wind on our faces, and absorb the gorgeous sights.  This time, it was more appropriate to play Bach's Cantata BWV 146, the English title: "We must through much tribulation enter into the kingdom of God". Fitting.

Nutrioso

Heli-seeding in Alpine

That puff of brown smoke in the top left side of the ridge is seeds and mulch being dropped on the barren ground by helicopter.  Isn't that the coolest?  We had seen the smoke the previous day and my heart dropped.  But I was told by our friend, Andy, that heli-seeding was taking place in Greer, Eager, and Alpine.  We watched for about 30 minutes as the helicopter dropped the load, disappeared, re-load, and drop another load of seeds and mulch.  

Escudillo Mountain 

We drove past blackened forest for about 50 miles, meaning there were always charred trees somewhere along the road. For the entire 50 miles. Bless those firefighters.

Hannagan Meadow

Hannagan Meadow was a happy sight.  Still beautiful after barely escaping the fire. Elevation 9100 feet (Greer is about 8500 feet)

Hannagan Meadow Lodge

Hannagan Meadow Lodge, built in 1926, also escaped the fire.  If you're looking for a complete getaway, this might be the place for you.  No phones in the room (one pay phone in the lobby), no tv's, no movie theatre down the road.  And a pretty weak cell signal (I'm not complaining). Just the lodge, cabins, restaurant, and a little market next door.  And the folks who run the place are so friendly.  This is definitely on my list for an overnight stay.

Blue Vista Lookout 

This lookout is about seven miles south of Hannagan Meadow.  You can see straight across to New Mexico (about 15 miles or so).

I love Arizona

We were stuck in construction traffic behind these beauties for around 20 minutes.  The cow refused to make eye contact with us.

Back to Greer.

We stopped at this little spot for a late lunch before we returned back to the heat of Phoenix. I love roadside food trucks.

Frosty Bottom Cafe

The owner, Kristi, told us she made the best sandwiches on the planet.  I love that level of confidence in a cook.

She was right.  Excellent.

Also excellent.

Kristi at the Frosty Bottom Cafe

That wraps up our tour of the Wallow Fire aftermath.  Devastation, absolutely.  Still a beautiful area, definitely.  Worth a trip, yes!

QUICK TRIP TO GREER, ARIZONA

It was as if bells were ringing and the angels were singing as my sister and I drove into Greer, Arizona.  Greer is the tiny gem at the end of a road in the White Mountains.  My family and I have spent many summers in this magical little hamlet so we were heartsick when it appeared to be a victim of the horrific Wallow Fire that recently tore up over 500,000 of some of the most beautiful acres in eastern Arizona.

Road into Greer

We made a quick trip to Greer to see for ourselves the aftermath of the fire. Holding our breath as we traveled down Highway 373 we were immersed in gorgeous green trees interspersed with charred and toasted trees along the road and on the surrounding mountains.

Lazy Trout Market

First familiar site: the Lazy Trout Market, formerly the Circle B.  We popped in and bought a few needed items: Big Hunk (really?) and a Pay Day.

Eastern Slope

Then we looked to the left and our eyes drifted from healthy trees, to brown trees, to blackened sticks along the ridge-line.

Rendezvous Diner

Next up, the Rendezvous Diner:  Still intact but surrounded by heaps of sandbags to prepare for potential flooding if the rains come down faster than can be absorbed.

Molly Butler Lodge

Right next door is Molly Butler Lodge.  Been there forever and still looking good. Whew.

Western Slope

The western side of the valley was untouched.  Gorgeous.

Amberian Peaks Lodge - Greer

We stayed at the Amberian Peaks Lodge, newly renovated with spacious rooms and tucked away at the end of the road. The fire came close but it also survived.

View from Amberian Peaks Lodge

Just look at that view? And those blue skies--perfection. Oh, and did I tell you the high temperatures are around 77 degrees?  Lows in the mid-40's.  If you live anywhere near Phoenix you know those are summer temperatures that one only can dream about.

Heading into Butler Canyon

Now comes the hard part.  We were fortunate to become acquainted with a great guy, Andy Kurtz, who spent his summers growing up in Greer and is now a retired hydrologist. He took us into Butler Canyon to see the aftermath of what appeared to be an inferno. First, things look pretty good--lots of green, a bit of charring. Not too bad.

Andy pointing out the burn pattern and erosion

Then we walk about 100 yards and we are in the middle of a cindered forest walking on top of a good 8 inches of ash and silt.

Burned out root holes sneak up on you if you aren't careful, meaning you can literally sink up to your knees.  So we tread very carefully.

A bit of hope

After being in the middle of a film noir, the splash of green was a feast for the eyes.

The Bracken Fern are up!

And all that Bracken Fern now practically looks like a full blown dancing meadow.

Can you spot the deer? (Right side of pic)

Respite

After our tour, we returned to our lodge for dinner and a movie (a fun little Russian film that we brought with us, The Concert).

As you can imagine, the firefighters saved Greer and the community could not be more grateful.  Large "thank you" signs were posted all over the place (which, oddly, I only have one hard to read picture of).

Hand made thank you sign to firefighters at top (squint your eyes, that might help)

Note:  Over 30 structures were lost in the Wallow Fire.  Family homes and cabins perished.  I did not post any pictures of burned-out structures out of respect for the owners.

Next up: Nutrioso, Alpine, and Hannagan Meadow

SEDONA DAY TRIPPIN'

I felt like a kid again.  Waking up early in the morning, piling into the car, and heading to some beautiful location in Arizona.  I remember my Dad would back the car into the driveway (to make it easier to load the trunk, no doubt) and then pull straight out, car aimed toward our destination.  Not backing out of the driveway the usual way for school, church, or mundane errands signaled we were on vacation.

A few Saturdays ago my two sisters, niece and I took a day trip to Sedona.  It had been raining up there for three straight days with no rain in the forecast for our excursion.  I knew it would be perfect. As we drove up north we dipped down through the Verde Valley (sadly, no pics, light too low) where spectacular moisture-laden clouds were hanging low.  What a great opening to our trip.  Officially leaving our cares behind, we took the exit toward Sedona and then we had our first peek at those gorgeous red rocks.

Red Rock State Park

The clouds swirled by all day so the light was constantly changing. My friend, Chris, professional photographer, would have loved the challenge and the surroundings.

Red Rock State Park

Somewhere in the brush is the famous Vortex.  Never did see it nor did we feel a change of "energy". Although any time I'm standing smack dab in the middle of Nature at her finest, senses are sharpened and I'm energized.  Same thing? Don't know.

Red Rock State Park

Wilson Mountain, Oak Creek Canyon 

Views such as this one tends to give me a refreshed perspective.  Does it you?

Driving up Oak Creek Canyon I remembered Garland's Lodge.  I have always wanted to stay there.

So we turned off the highway and drove down a narrow road over Oak Creek.

You just know something special is around the corner.

Isn't this just the welcome you want to receive when you have a booked a few nights at a lodge?  Garland's Lodge is tucked into the canyon far from the busy 89A.  A stay at Garland's includes afternoon tea, dinner, and breakfast.  Apparently the food is so good that a cookbook has been published, Sharing Our Table at Garland's Lodge. 

Photo by E. Rees (darling niece)

We hadn't booked anything, of course.  We were just snooping around this gorgeous property mentally tucking away a future stay.  (Actually, for several days I daydreamed about coming back to stay, by myself, for two nights, never leaving the property upon arriving.)

That's my future cabin, right behind me. Hmmm. Sigh.

Pumpkins stand at attention atop the stone wall.

Photo by E. Rees

Moving on.  We headed back down the canyon and toward the mining town of Jerome.  But first, a quick stop for terrific views from Oak Creek Airport.

Capitol Butte and Brins Mesa

Jerome, Arizona

Jerome is an old copper mining town.  Once a thriving town it is now filled with artisans and biker bars.

Jerome, Arizona

My friend, Liz, told me about the Asylum Restaurant at the Jerome Hotel.  It is perched above the town with great views and a ghoulish interior.  We were there the weekend of Day of the Dead so the creepy factor was sky high.  We stayed long enough to have a soda on the patio.

We decided we hadn't had enough of Sedona so instead of taking a different route back home we went back to Sedona, stopped at a street fair, and then went home the same way we came.

So, when was your last day trip?  If it's been a while, grab a map and start planning. We didn't do anything fancy on this trip and spent very little money.  No jeep tours or overnight stays.  If the weather had been warmer we would have brought a picnic.  The scenery was spectacular and the company undemanding.  Consider grabbing family or friends, camera and map, and carve out a day to explore and refresh.

ARIZONA FAVORITES

I absolutely love living in Arizona. Here are a few of my favorite places/restaurants:

Favorite part of the State: Greer
A lovely little hamlet tucked at the base of Mt. Baldy. Eastern part of the state about 25 miles from the New Mexico border.

Favorite hike: the trail above and beyond Wind Cave - Mesa
Wind Cave trail is great but the trail that veers off to the right above Wind Cave is spectacular. It is steep but when you get to the top you will find amazing views of the Superstitions, Four Peaks, and the Goldfield Mountains. Not for little kids.


Favorite plant nursery: Baker Nursery - 40th Street and Osborn, Phoenix (pictured above)
I've been going here since I was a kid. A serious plant nursery for serious gardeners.


2nd place: Berridge Nursery - 46th Street and Camelback, Phoenix
Berridge is another favorite not too far from Baker Nursery. It is laid out beautifully and has a fun little seasonal shop.


Favorite cinnamon rolls: Belinda's Kitchen (4301 E. McKellips, Mesa)
My oh my. Delicious. Both the cinnamon rolls and the orange rolls.


Favorite cookie shop: Jacob Lake Inn (Key Lime, German Chocolate, Lemon Zucchini, etc.)
Jacob Lake Inn is found on the long drive to Utah. It is near Fredonia at the very tip top of Arizona near the Utah border. Stopping at the Inn is the reward for a long drive.


Favorite fish tacos: Rancho de Tia Rosa - Mesa
Salmon tacos, Shrimp tacos, Halibut, crab--all are good. But my favorite combination is the Salmon taco followed by the sweet Shrimp taco.


Favorite chicken tacos: Blue Adobe Grille - Mesa
Love this often overlooked restaurant--shredded chicken with sliced cabbage in soft corn tortillas.

Favorite ice cream shop: Mary Coyle - Phoenix
Growing up in Phoenix, when my sisters and I received a good report card this is where we went to celebrate. Now my 12 year old niece loves it, too.

Favorite pizza: Grazie - Scottsdale
Best thin crust pizza. Love sitting outside (weather permitting).

Favorite decadent dessert: Dolce Della Casa (Hazelnut and Banana Calzone) at Grazie (even better eaten outside next to the fireplace) Slightly Charred Sweet Calzone filled with Chocolate Hazelnut Sauce and Banana topped with Vanilla Ice Cream

Favorite pancakes: Rendezvous Diner in Greer
The pancake batter is a homemade concoction that the owner described to me. I didn't even bother writing it down since it was so decadent. But the pancakes are the best I've ever had and so lacey and pretty.

Favorite local breakfast splurge: Crackers & Co. - Mesa (the Vatican Skillet, yum)
Well seasoned food, but portions are large so the great thing is I can get 2-3 meals from this yummy dish.

Favorite soda pop shop: Pop the Soda Shop - Scottsdale
A really fun soda shop with rows and rows of interesting flavors and delicious bottled pop.

Favorite Independent Book Store: The Poisoned Pen - Scottsdale
One of the last around. Great mystery books and weekly discussions with visiting authors.

Favorite French Bistro (yes, in Phoenix): Vincent's Market Bistro - Phoenix
This feels like a tiny, Parisian cafe. And you are given the best mini-croissants with your lunch. Also excellent prices.

Favorite Lunch Salad: Roasted Beet and Spinach Salad at Taylor's Cafe in Phoenix
Healthy and yummy (the salad, not the entire menu).

Favorite "Let's Share a Dessert at Lunch" place: Nordstrom Cafe (love that Coconut Lemon Cake) - Scottsdale
Nordstrom Cafe is so easy and lots of good choices. Best tomato basil soup.

Favorite place that is no more: Don Jose's Mexican Restaurant (sniffle, sniffle) - Phoenix
My parents loved this place and would be sad to see that it closed. My sisters and I continued to go to this restaurant right up to the last week they were open. Best Mexican food ever.