LONDON 2010 - PART 2

We spent most of the day separately.  Leslie and I had planned to spend Friday each doing what we wanted in London and would meet up at the end of the day.  She needed to stop by the Shakespeare's Globe Theatre for a little business and then head to the Kew Gardens.  Of course, the one day we split is the day she meets the British actor, Hugh Bonneville.  Click here to read Leslie's story.

That same day was also the day London introduced its new cycling program (or scheme, as they like to call it).  In partnership with Barclays, London is trying to alleviate the crazy traffic issues by providing bike stations throughout the City.  This is similar to the Velib bikes in Paris.  Basically, you pay an annual membership fee, pick-up a bike at a station located throughout the city, ride it to the station closest  to your destination, and drop off the bike.

During the day, I passed by six bike stations, so it would have worked great for me on my walking route.  However, I would need nerves of steel to ride a bike in London.  There are no designated bike lanes, and I cannot emphasize enough how congested traffic is in London.  But my hat's off to those hardy souls who brave riding a bike in London.

So, follow me as I spend some time wandering around London stopping by new and old favorites. First, we will tube it to Persephone Books which is not far from the British Museum.  Persephone Books is a small publishing company, but wait, let's read their description:

"Persephone prints mainly neglected fiction and non-fiction by women, for women and about women. The titles are chosen to appeal to busy women who rarely have time to spend in ever-larger bookshops and who would like to have access to a list of books designed to be neither too literary nor too commercial. The books are guaranteed to be readable, thought-provoking and impossible to forget. We sell mainly through mail order, through selected shops and we have our own shop."


For me, this is one of those, "Why didn't I think of that?", businesses.  I love the concept and I love the style in which they execute their business plan.

This is the cute street in which they are housed--Lambs Conduit Street.

And this is cute Miranda (check out her darling blog) who helped me select SIX books (yes, I shipped them home).  One of the books was for Leslie who instructed me to purchase, "a happy, happy book with a happy ending".  Miranda was super helpful in filling that order. Which, by the way, the book selected was Mariana by Monica Dickens (Charles' daughter) and Leslie was very happy. In fact, you can read her review here.

So after a spending time browsing through this darling shop, I bid adieu and walked toward the British Museum. But of course, since this is London, there are lots of fun sights along the way.

I wonder if anyone has stopped to count or to take pictures of all the pretty fountains in London (hmmm, maybe I should do that?).  This is one of a woman pouring water from an urn.  Her face is blackened so it was hard to capture a good picture but the look on her face matched my mood--to be content in the moment.

Don't know if this building is filled with office space, residential apartments, or a mix.  But the color of the stone is stunning.

Isn't it great that there is such a thing as the UK Tea Council?

Because it is such a pretty day, we are going to keep walking right past the tube station and revel in our surroundings. We will be rewarded.

See, it didn't take long to come upon something beautiful and mysterious.  Where do these gates lead?

Just look at this gate. If we were in a tube we would have missed it!  I asked someone if this was some type of royal residence but was told no, just the gate to an apartment building.  My word, it is beautiful. Just entering those gates would reduce the stress of the day.

It's time for a break and with all of the steps and half-walls surrounding the British Museum, this is a perfect place to relax and do some people-watching (and to drink a luke-warm Diet Coke, me: Is it cold? vendor: of course, Miss).


Just around the corner from the British Museum is my favorite art gallery, Abbott and Holder. Several years ago I purchased from them two faded 18th Century water colors drawn by a French furniture shop.  My sister, Lori, purchased a few more, and since then I've regretted not purchasing the remainder of the lot.

So, of course, a stop at this little gem was a must.

I plowed through three floors of lots and lots of stacked water colors, prints, etc.  Nothing.  But then Phillip, the manager, said he thought he had a few tucked away.  I came.  I looked.  I bought.  Five.  Happy, happy.

After leaving Abbott and Holder I noticed the Robert Kime shop down the road.  Notice the Royal Warrant logo on the upper left side of his sign. That means he has supplied goods and services to the Queen for at least five years.  His fabrics would suit my home beautifully. Alas, I couldn't afford a pillow in his shop. But it's always fun to take a peak.

Interesting statue.  Wouldn't work well in my home.

I love this ottoman.  It would be perfect in my family room, don't you think?  Sitting on top of that same rug, of course. The ottoman was over 2,000 GBP meaning around $3,000 USD.  In other words, not in my home nor on its way to me.

After walking a few more blocks, I succumbed and took the tube to Oxford Circus (the absolute craziest tube station in London).  But we are greatly rewarded as we exit the station, turn the corner, and there in all her glory is Liberty (not the statue, the famous London department store). Let's have a moment of silence.

Greeting us as we enter are bunches and bunches of the most romantic, welcoming, and heart-lifting flowers.  In fact, the word "flower" does not do these pretties any justice.

I explored each one of the floors thoroughly taking my time and enjoying my surroundings.

Pillows galore.

Lamp shades galore.

Fabrics galore.

And this good looking bunch. 

By now it is 2:30 and we're ready for a little sustenance. How considerate to have a tea room and a cafe all under one roof.  I opted for Liberty Cafe since i needed more than tea and scones.  Wish I had a photo of that room with me seated upon a  cushion surrounded by down-filled pillows, sipping my soup and drinking a cold soda with ice cubes (more than three floating on the top).  Heaven.


Well, it's now time to start making our way back to the hotel to meet up with Leslie. But first, a walk through the park.

London has so many pretty parks that dot the city.  Look on any London map and you will see roads laid out like cooked noodles but you will also see lots of green space tucked through out.  What a treat to find something gorgeous to look at just when you need a little time out after walking, shopping, walking, and shopping.


Leslie and I met up for a quick dinner at Wagamama and then hightailed it over to the National Gallery of Art for its Talk and Draw class.  We missed the first few minutes of the lecture but spent 30 minutes quickly sketching the painting we observed.  Thankfully, neither of us took any pictures of our artwork so there is no proof of our skill level.


Next up:  London Part 3 

LONDON 2010, Part 1

Rules Restaurant--welcome to London! I booked dinner reservations at Rules Restaurant for our first night in London. It feels so veddy, veddy, British that it was really the only choice for our first night in London.

My absolute favorite dessert on earth, Sticky Toffee Pudding. What you're looking at is dense spice cake, smothered in toffee sauce, with a bit of custard and, as if needed, a scoop of clotted cream.  Hmmm, now you know why it's my favorite dessert and why I only have it once in a blue moon.

After dinner, we cabbed it to the Tower of London for the 10:00 pm Ceremony of the Keys.  Leslie (always thinking waaaay ahead,) had secured tickets months in advance. This is the traditional locking up of the Tower and has been done every night for 700 years.  Instead of, "Halt, who goes there", they actually say, "Halt, who comes here".  It is all very dramatic and the guests (us) are very quiet and almost reverent. It's all over by 10:15 (and that includes questions with the guards).  It is great fun and worth doing.

We stayed at a new hotel (new to me) in a neighborhood I wasn't that familiar with.  The Sumner Hotel in the Marble Arch area was just right for us.  It is a 5 minute walk from the Marble Arch tube station which is a convenient line to be home-based.

It was refreshing to see a more modern approach to a typical London row house--not a cabbage rose in sight.

The sitting room was filled with the usual travel guides (all current) and local magazines. Soothing sage greens and silver with a pop of red made this room sing.

This was a pretty pass-through area between the sitting room and front desk.  Love the silvers and blues.

Good sized room for London--we had plenty of space. I always request a room away from the street so our room was very quiet.

Love the Oyster card! This card provided us with unlimited tube rides for 5 days. Leslie figured this would pay for itself pretty quick and she was right.  We bought the 5 day card for around 25 pounds and probably broke even by the third day.  That even included the times (at the end of the day) when we were spent and turned our noses up at the tube and hopped in a lovely London cab.

Sometimes there are two depths of escalators to take you out of the underground.  Believe me, I try not to think too much about just how deep below the street we are.

First stop Thursday morning--Grace Kelly. The wonderful V&A (Victoria and Albert Museum) has some of the most interesting exhibits.  I've been to an exhibit of tiaras, beds, and wood carvings (Grinling Gibbons), and now the Grace Kelly exhibit.  Her clothes, handbags (even the famous Hermes Kelly bag), shoes, gloves and hats were all displayed with a few news reels running on screens. My Mom would have loved it.

The only thing missing (from my point of view) was her wedding dress. Apparently that is on display at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

I may be the only person who has been to London almost a dozen times without having stepped foot into the Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, but not anymore.  Leslie had hoped to have her photo taken with her favorite Bollywood actor, however, said actor had been shipped off to the Hollywood branch of Madame Tussauds.  Rotten luck (I'm guessing she will be sneaking off to LA any day now).   But, happily I had my picture taken with one of my favorite world leaders, Lady Margaret Thatcher.  Although I've met her in person I didn't have a photo taken with her so this was great fun.

The Royal Mews

 The nicest horse stables I've ever seen.  The Queen takes the care and feeding of her horses seriously.  And since she was on holiday, so were they.

The Churchill War Rooms

This is one of my favorite places to visit--formerly known as the Cabinet War Rooms, the Churchill War Rooms take you underground (there seems to be a lot of underground action in London) to view Churchill's secret headquarters during World War II.  The Cabinet War Rooms, offices, and minuscule sleeping rooms are all on view.  The war staff were provided rooms to overnight that were further below ground than the command center (reached by a narrow and steep gray metal ladder).   Those sleeping areas were shared with rats and rotten smells leaving some staff to say, "I'll take my chances with the air raids and head home for the night."  Just looking down the ladder made me think the same thing.

New for me was the Churchill Museum which included an interactive exhibit of daily news and photos from every year of Churchill's life.  This museum is top rated and should be on your list of must-sees when you cross the pond.

Continuing with the World Ward II theme, this is St. Jame's Church, one of 9 Christopher Wren churches bombed during the Blitz. Famed architect, Christopher Wren, had designed and built over 50 churches after the Great Fire of London in 1666 (including St. Paul's Cathedral). I'm looking for a good biography on Wren so if you know of one, do tell.

This, my darlings, is just two days of our time in London.  Next up: London, Part 2

FLANDERS FIELDS, BELGIUM

In Flanders Fields Museum, Iepers (Ypres), Belgium

Leslie and I set aside a day for a trip to the World War I sites in the Flanders region.  Our first stop was Iepers (Ypres) to visit the excellent In Flanders Field Museum (far left side of building above).  The Germans occupied this pretty little market town from 1914-1918.  U. S. troops arrived in 1917.

The museum has carefully documented and presented the stories of the soldiers and the villagers who were under siege for four years.  As we walked through the museum reading the stories one of us would point to an exhibit, start to speak, choke up and turn away wandering off to the next heartbreaking exhibit.

Menin Gate Memorial

We drove into Iepers (pronounced "eepers") through the impressive Menin Gate, a memorial to those soldiers who were missing in the battlefields in Belgium Flanders and had no proper burial.

"TO THE ARMIES OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE WHO STOOD HERE FROM 1914-1918 AND TO THOSE OF THEIR DEAD WHO HAVE NO KNOWN GRAVE"

Over 54,000 names of fallen soldiers are engraved on stone.  Every night at 8:00 pm Last Post is played inside the Memorial.  This has been a tradition since 1927.

Passchendaele Museum, Zonnebeke, Belgium

Passchendaele is the site of a major battle that took place in 1917.  It was grinding warfare with nothing much left above ground, so soldiers had to live below ground. This museum depicted dugouts and trenches which were so real it almost made me sick.

Passchendaele Museum, Zonnebeke, Belgium

Above, window boxes stuffed with fresh flowers.

Cemeteries honoring the soldiers who came to fight for Belgium and never return home are scattered throughout the region.  It was very moving to see how the villagers have paid their respects to those soldiers.  Every cemetery we visited was perfectly maintained.

An abundance of hydrangeas and geraniums.

"In Flanders fields the poppies blow between the crosses, row on row..."
                                                                                         John McCrae

Here's our fun little car shown off by the ever lovely Vanna White (aka Leslie). It was a spectacular day--the blue skies mottled with splintering clouds--the perfect day for a day trip in the country.

It was a sobering day, but one of my favorite on this trip.  I have a whole new respect for the resilience of the Belgian people.

Next stop:  London!